Plague Doctor Bodice

This is my Halloween costume this year, and I drafted this 18th century inspired bodice to go over a chemise dress I already own. Below are the pattern pieces with seam allowance included put out onto a 1″ grid so you can use it to draft your own copy. I’m not going to go into great detail on how it is constructed so you do need to be a pretty experienced seamstress to jump from pattern pieces to completed garment. Here are some construction notes:

The neckline and armscye have 1/4″ seam allowances, the rest are all 1/2″.
The stomacher is a separate piece that you just insert under the lacing. It is boned with 1/2″ rigeline and binding is used at the top finish it.
The center front, center back, and side seams are all boned with rigeline.
The peplum is 8″ deep and I made it by measuring the bodice’s bottom edge minus seam allowance to each seam (side, side back, centerback) then adding in a box pleat at each seam(do it as deep as you’d like!). So essentially it is one long rectangle with notches where the pleats go. There is a center back seam in the peplum as it is generally too wide for one strip of fabric. Don’t forget to add seam allowances to the top, bottom and sides after you draft it.
Use the blue grid as your grainline guides.
Fusible interfacing was used on the self.
I used 5 pairs of dirndl eyelets/hooks in lieu of grommets (just search for dirndl eyelets or hooks and they should come up).

This was made for someone with a 38″ bust 31″ waist, but this would work for a person up to 2″ smaller or bigger on both measurements due to the lace up front. I would adjust the stomacher bigger or smaller though since that isn’t very hard to do. I am quite tall though (5’9″) so the strap length might need to be adjusted for someone more petite. Just remember to cut down the armscye under the arm if you do shorten the strap.

Bodice Front: Cut 2 self, 2 lining, 2 interfacing

Bodice Side: Cut 2 self, 2 interfacing

Bodice Center Back: Cut 2 self, 2 lining

Bodice Back Lining: Cut 1 lining on fold

Stomacher: Cut 1 self, 1 lining, 1 interfacing on fold

Completed Stomacher (reverse to show boning chanels):

Completed Bodice Right Side:

Completed Bodice Reverse: